Fitting Checklist

Is your saddle balanced from front to back? Check to see that the pommel and cantle are level (or check that the bar conchos are in alignment).

Stand on a stool directly behind your horse. Check to see that the gullet channel is parallel with the spine, the pommel and cantle should be aligned. If you notice one side "dipping," you horse may have hoof, skeletal, or muscular asymmetry. 

The distance between the scapula edge and the last thoracic vertebrae is your horse's individual saddle support area. The longissimus dorsi muscle is the primary weight bearing muscle for the bars of your saddle. Check that your saddle does not sit directly on the scapula or past the 18th rib.

Note: well-built saddle trees will flare away from the horse at the point of the scapula and lumbar, meaning that part of your saddle is non-weight bearing.

Stack your fingers horizontally and place them between the bottom of the pommel and the horse's withers. You need to have at least a 2-finger clearance so that the horse can lift and engage its back without hitting the pommel.

Each horse has a unique girth groove, the area of the sternum. Your girth should sit within the area of the horse's sternum, but not so close as to rub his elbows or so far back that it pinches him. Western saddles have a variety of rigging placements and there is no industry standard - it is dependent on the saddle maker.

Flip your saddle over (pommel down) and run your hand down the gullet channel. Depending on the size of your horse's spine, you want at least 4 fingers wide down the entire channel. This ensures that your saddle does not rest on your horse's spine or spinal processes.

Equal bar contact is paramount for good saddle fit. If any part of the tree is pushing into the horse or not touching the horse, there will be unequal distribution of weight. Common problems are no contact under the cantle, bridging, or rocking.

The angle the tree must match the angle of your horse's shoulder. Any large deviation will cause unequal weight distribution and pressure points, which could result in white hairs.

The distance between the top of the bars is your tree width (aka gullet size). This is the toughest part of a saddle to measure once a saddle has been built into a tree. It is almost impossible to get an accurate measurement once a saddle has leather, flocking, conchos, etc.

There is no industry standard for gullet sizes, it varies by saddle maker. Your best bet is to call an individual brand and ask for specs.

If any, you'll need to address asymmetry in your horse's body, assess your pad with your saddle (does it help or hinder the saddle?), and evaluate how the saddle fits both you and your horse in motion.